New issue of Modified....look who is on the last page!!
OK here we go
exhaust off. funny story....forgot to unplug the (brand new) o2 sensor when I dropped it (onto myself so it didnt fall too far to put stress on the wire thankfully) so I had to like rotate myself under this (very very heavy) exhaust to get to it. that was fun
gasket looks faaaaantastic. glad I got new ones for when I do my headgasket!
flywheel cover off
oil cooler line off
oil cooler line tied up out of the way
oil pan off
oil baffle and pickup
behold my crankshaft!
2222 = bearing numbers for rod bearings from the factory (supposedly)
33332 = main bearing numbers from the factory (supposedly)
rod bearing #1 = 2
rod bearing #2 = 2
rod bearing #3 = 4. this is different from the numbers on the block, meaning this one has probably been changed at some point
rod bearing #4 = 2
after i tried wiggling stuff around I couldn't see any noticable play in any of them. since it started to get dark, I put the oil pan back on with just 4 bolts to just hold it there so crap doesnt get up in my bottom end till i work on it again this weekend.
started it up for a sec while the exhaust was off earlier today
I got the rod ends and bearings out. All of them say the number 3 on the flat side. Also, the crank is super shiny and smooth, no scratches or anything. Bearings dont really have any scratching either, but the top ones (the ones in the rod) look like they have some wear in the middle. Once I figure out if the "3" really is the size I need, I will order the new bearings. Hopefully everything will be back together next weekendCylinder 1 - most of them look like this more or less. very clean, not gouged or anything.
this is the only marking on the bearings themselves
number on the side. all of them say 3
super clean crank journals
Cylinder 1 - notice one 12-point and one 6-point nut....very weird. will probably have to order another 12 point from Toyota so they are all the same
4/10/11sent the bearings with Pierce so he can measure them so I can have an idea as to what size I need to be looking at.
2222 = bearing numbers for rod bearings from the factory
|Those numbers have nothing to do with the rod bearings. I suspect they indicate the standard piston size, though I couldn't find any solid evidence of that.|
NO! Those numbers cast into the end caps are not the numbers you're looking for. These will be stamped into one flat side of the rod big ends.
|Exactly right. Just as the BGB says. You (MR2_FTW) need to have that BGB handy and pay careful attention to it.|
|number on the side. all of them say 3|
|So the factory originally fitted size 3 bearings in all of those connecting rods.|
Yeah I know, I just don't know which ones to get....the 3 on the cap suggests I get #3's, but the block says 2's...
|Again, just to be clear, ignore the numbers stamped into block. They are NOT for the connecting rod bearings.|
..should I just get 2's and measure the clearence on those then get either 1's or 3's depending on the clearences?
|Get #3 bearings if the crank looks cherry and feels perfectly smooth and confirm the correct clearance with Plastigage.|
I sent my old bearings with my friend to measure at their least-worn spots so I can have a (vague) idea as to what they are supposed to be since no one knows...and the measurements dont really say much either way...
|Let's not worry about measuring bearing shell thickness. There is far too much room for error and misinterpretation there.|
Maybe it was just an exhaust leak from that one donut gasket? If you didnt have any metal shavings in the oil, plus those bearings dont look too bad......
|I'm with mk1noob here. Exhaust leaks and poor state of tune can make a very convincing clunk or knock sound on these cars.|
new bearings are in, oil pan stuff is sealed and on. still need to fill with oil, put exhaust back on, and start it up.
the chassis where my front motor mount mounts is cracking and starting to tear away. this is apparently common on AW11's because its a pretty weak point on teh chassis to be taking all the forces from the engine. Mine is just starting, but this is what could happen:
so I need someone to weld on some 1/8" steel like this
more examples of torn mounts and repairs
tonight I added copious amounts of JB Weld to my exhaust crack, found a great way to route a ground wire for the alternator, and filled the car w cheap oil (wal mart supertec is like $11 for 5 quarts) cuz im just gonna have to change it after 500 miles of breaking in the new bearings anyway. tomorrow night I'll add another layer of JB Weld and Friday I'll put the exhaust back on the car and hopefully start her up.
still need to find a place to do my engine mount
4/21/11 emailed Delta V and they referred me to the guys they use for building roll cages and stuff
I sent Carlos an email and I'm hoping to hear back from him soon
____________________________________________________ok i called him and he's gonna have a look at my pics tonight and gimme a call back tomorrow. I could take it in as early as Monday!
also my Urethane kit came in from McMaster. 60A urethane base and activator so I can fill my side mounts at some point as well. FOR THE WIN
4/24/11car runs smooth with no problems. even drove it to Billy's house. Still not heard back from Carlos about the welding
4/25/11forgot my camera AND left my phone in my car (it was on the lift) so i have no pics of the torn mount, but it was getting worse. I'll take pics of the repair tomorrow probably, since I have to be under there to put under coating on it anyway. So tomorrow morning I'm gonna go bright and early to get an inspection and then I gotta do said underbody coating and put the plastic undertray back on and wash the car then it's good to go.
pics are before I added the rubber undercoating.
4/28/11need front tires to pass inspection. ordered two Dunlop Direzza DZ101 205/50/15 from TireRack.....so I will be driving an expired inspection for a few days >.<
5/2/11Front tires just came in. Dunlop Direzza DZ101 205/50/15. Treadwear 300, directional, summer tires. I decided on these because (1) its summer (2) they will probably help get rid of my understeer at autocross (4) the Kumho's have gone up in price by like $10/tire so these are now cheaper AND better
also I've never had 205's on the front before so this will be interesting.
5/5/11put the stock shift lever back in, kept the drop plate. Got tired of notcheyness/tearing up center console.
________________________________________________took a drive on Old Gun this afternoon. My new 205's up front rub on the plastic fender liners very slightly when I hit a bump in the middle of a turn. I don't think its a big deal since its not the metal of the fender, and its only under that instance, but I think my shocks play a big roll in that. I already know my Tokico Blues are woefully inadequate to properly dampen the TRD springs, so maybe better shocks can become a higher priority.