so yesterday i took care of a few little things that have been annoying me
1. took apart the trunk lock and made it work. first time i've ever been able to use my key to open my trunk
2. fixed the rattle from the c-pillar trim with a rubber plumbing washer
3. replaced a missing bolt from my front underbody brace
and then i went to re-mount my front wheels (gotta wiggle em while tightening lug nuts to make sure its centered) and because the alignment guy used an impact gun to put them on (BIG NO NO) the lug key tool snapped. had to use pierces tool again to remove ALL of my lug nuts and had to go to advance and get the same shitty horrible chrome ones corey has (no offense dude but those lugs suck BALLS). i now have CHROME...on my CAR.......sweet jesus that sucks. selling my 949's to Garett today and hopefully going by RPM and picking up some NICE lugs that will fit tomorrow.
9/19/11
changed oil today. used some off the shelf oil flush too. didnt really see a huge difference, but my engine is super clean inside anyway so I wasnt really expecting much.
11/27/11
Symptom:
When I turn the headlights on (or try to flash the brights), the lights pop up, but do not turn on. Instead, the relay in the frunk sounds like a freaking buzzer, the volts drop down, dash lights dim, rpm needle goes up and wiggles around, dash hazard lights stay on.
Possibly related problem:
for a while now, my brights will only turn on when they feel like it. If I pulled the lever towards me they will flash, but if I try to push the lever away from me to turn them on, the lights will cut off completely (unless they decide to work sometimes). This was of course before the relay/dash started going crazy tonight.
any ideas?
11/28/11
OK so this is WAY worse than I thought. Here we go...
Yesterday I removed the headlight switch just so I wouldn't have to mess with it untill I got a new one...
So today I find that while the engine is ON,
1. turn signals blink REALLY fast and on the correct side, but the dash signal is the opposite side
2. wipers work, but when i press it in to use the washer jets, volt gauge drops to 0, dash turn signals come on
3. hazard switch drops volt gauge to 0, rpm gauge goes crazy, and something starts buzzing (like the headlights were doing before)
4. flashing brights pops up the lights, drops volts, crazy rpm gauge, both dash turn signal lights come on for as long as I hold the stalk towards me
5. pushing brights stalk away does nothing
While engine is OFF, ignition switch is at ON
1. turn signals work normally
2. hazards work normally
3. washer jets work normally
4. brights same problem as above
11/27/11
Symptom:
When I turn the headlights on (or try to flash the brights), the lights pop up, but do not turn on. Instead, the relay in the frunk sounds like a freaking buzzer, the volts drop down, dash lights dim, rpm needle goes up and wiggles around, dash hazard lights stay on.
Possibly related problem:
for a while now, my brights will only turn on when they feel like it. If I pulled the lever towards me they will flash, but if I try to push the lever away from me to turn them on, the lights will cut off completely (unless they decide to work sometimes). This was of course before the relay/dash started going crazy tonight.
any ideas?
11/28/11
OK so this is WAY worse than I thought. Here we go...
Yesterday I removed the headlight switch just so I wouldn't have to mess with it untill I got a new one...
So today I find that while the engine is ON,
1. turn signals blink REALLY fast and on the correct side, but the dash signal is the opposite side
2. wipers work, but when i press it in to use the washer jets, volt gauge drops to 0, dash turn signals come on
3. hazard switch drops volt gauge to 0, rpm gauge goes crazy, and something starts buzzing (like the headlights were doing before)
4. flashing brights pops up the lights, drops volts, crazy rpm gauge, both dash turn signal lights come on for as long as I hold the stalk towards me
5. pushing brights stalk away does nothing
While engine is OFF, ignition switch is at ON
1. turn signals work normally
2. hazards work normally
3. washer jets work normally
4. brights same problem as above
when I got home from class I left the car running, went upside down and looked under the dash again. There is a light blue plastic bracket thing that a billion plugs plug into just to the left of the clutch pedel. This was not bolted down super securely so I wiggled it a bit, and lo and behold everything worked again. I think I need to unplug that stuff and inspect it for any bare wires, scorch marks, etc. Also, I need to find a spare nut to secure it down.... I HOPE that's the problem.....
11/29/11
found some people that had the same problem. Not my pics, but my car was the same. keep in mind that this is all way up under the dash by the clutch pedal and is a MASSIVE pain in the ass to get to/work on/take apart
reinforced the burnt solder.
12/9/11
shoutout to Pierce for mounting/balancing my new tires. Also found out my good wheels are actually +40 offset, not 38. word.
1/2/12
Changed my oil today.
listed mileage was 244015
less correction (64214)
actual mileage 179,801
1/5/12
1/2/12
Changed my oil today.
listed mileage was 244015
less correction (64214)
actual mileage 179,801
1/5/12
ordered new porterfield hp r4s pads. gonna try and pick up some rotors tomorrow.
1/12/12
1/12/12
Changed front brake discs (NAPA premium blanks) and pads (Porterfield HP R4S) on Tuesday night. Gonna flush brake fluid and clutch fluid on Saturday at the work day at Corey's, as well as install my new fuel filter (never changed it as long as I've owned the car, figure now is probably a good time). I'm looking forward to having a solid, responsive pedal at the Autocross on Sunday.
1/15/12
Things I'm currently working out:
I may be trading my 3S-GTE head for a set of early model MR2 Spyder wheels. 15x6 front, 15x6.5 rear. These would become daily drivers with 195's up front and 205's out back, and the Nippon's would become race wheels. Only thing is that apparently the Spyder wheels have been painted blue??? so I'll be stripping those and either powder coating or painting them myself, probably bronze (like subi wheels)
Also, since Korey's new car is an 86, I may trade him my 85-86 koni's for his 89 koni's
2/7/12
about my new exhaust
BLARG. As long as it's here by May so I can pass inspection.
grumblegrumble rare car grumble grumble overnight parts from japan my ass grumble grumble hks usa gone grumble grumble
1/15/12
flushed the clutch (wasn't bad) and brakes (was REALLY bad) so now I have nice firm responsive pedals again. Also replaced my fuel filter, which was kindof a headache. Working in a garage with a nice smooth floor is FOR THE WIN
1/22/12
2/5/121/22/12
part of part of my wishlist is getting crossed off. Dude on the forum was selling a rear pair of Koni yellows for $200 and I snatched them up. He has an 86 and he got ones for 87+, so they are opened, but never installed. They cost $375/pair new. SO MUCH WIN
1/30/12
koni's came in. He advertised them as 87+ but the part number stamped in the shocks is definitely the 85-86 part number. The early struts are smaller diameter than the 87+. He said these wouldn't fit in his 86, but the part number says otherwise. Also, they seem to have a slight bulge in them which may be what gave him a hard time.....I'm SO pissed. I don't even know what to do. All I can do is wait for his PM response.
Also they didn't come with new shock collar nuts like they're supposed to.
1/30/12
koni's came in. He advertised them as 87+ but the part number stamped in the shocks is definitely the 85-86 part number. The early struts are smaller diameter than the 87+. He said these wouldn't fit in his 86, but the part number says otherwise. Also, they seem to have a slight bulge in them which may be what gave him a hard time.....I'm SO pissed. I don't even know what to do. All I can do is wait for his PM response.
Also they didn't come with new shock collar nuts like they're supposed to.
Things I'm currently working out:
I may be trading my 3S-GTE head for a set of early model MR2 Spyder wheels. 15x6 front, 15x6.5 rear. These would become daily drivers with 195's up front and 205's out back, and the Nippon's would become race wheels. Only thing is that apparently the Spyder wheels have been painted blue??? so I'll be stripping those and either powder coating or painting them myself, probably bronze (like subi wheels)
Also, since Korey's new car is an 86, I may trade him my 85-86 koni's for his 89 koni's
2/7/12
about my new exhaust
Quote:
"Hello Jordan, sorry about the delay I just recieved work back from HKS Japan that it will be an additional 5-7 weeks before this one reaches the US. I have tried looking everywhere to source one of these systems for you but there are just none available in the US. I appologize for the extended delay. Let me know if you would like to keep it on order still since you are needing an exhaust sooner than later. Thank you for your patience, Russ."
BLARG. As long as it's here by May so I can pass inspection.
grumblegrumble rare car grumble grumble overnight parts from japan my ass grumble grumble hks usa gone grumble grumble
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